PlexiGel 'Tune in Tuesday' Questions Answered

Posted by Fee Wallace on 1st Feb 2022

Fee Wallace answers all of your questions from the last Tune in Tuesday's session as she talks all things CND PLEXIGEL.

Curling is the name we give to the type of lifting that can happen on the underside of the free edge of the nail. When the client is wearing an overlay, or is growing their nails out rebalance after rebalance, we are relying on the product remaining adhered to the natural nail for many weeks at a time, and sometimes this adhesion can break down.

The easiest way to prevent curling generally in insuring the client uses SolarOil twice a day, every day. Think of it like conditioner preventing split ends, oil is necessary to keep the adhesion between the product and the nail in good condition. Without it the natural nail is likely to become overly dry once it grows out past the free edge, and curling becomes more likely.

Sometimes you will have a client who gets curling in the same place over and over again – one or two particular side walls or extension edge. This is usually due simply to the angle those particular nails grow in at. Daily SolarOil will help, but I would also recommend filing down the length of those nails every few rebalances, and building a new free edge on a form.

When we start working with builder gel, getting just the right amount on to do what we need takes some getting used to. The amount of builder gel we need will always very from client to client and from nail to nail.

First we need to know how much to bring out of the bottle on the brush, then how much to deposit onto the nail before allowing it to settle out. Getting the portion right is likely to be a bit hit or miss at first. I find I make a more accurate assessment by looking at the nail from the side and picturing what I want it look like 3 dimensionally. The width and length of the nail is one thing, but we must also consider how much gel we will need to create an apex. If the client in question has extremely flat or ski-jump nails, we will need more gel on the brush to bring that nail up to the shape we want it to have in the end. If the client’s nails have a natural curve however, we will find we need much less gel to create the same end result.

During last week’s show I created a French Ombre/Baby Boomer nail on a client with a light neutral skin tone. For this I used PLEXIGEL OATMILK for the nail bed, PORCELINE for the extension edge, and finished after filing, with a thin layer of SOFT BLUSH. For darker and warmer skin tones, try using different combinations. For example, SOFT BLUSH for the nail bed, PORCELINE for the extension edge, and SPICED TAFFY as the finial thin layer after filing.

When performing an enhancement rebalance, a selection of files like this is ideal. The 240/240 KANGA allows for precise refining when making small adjustments to the lower arch, or blending around the cuticle line during finishing. It’s also perfect for filing the free edge of the natural nail. I use a KANGA during every single nail service I perform.

A 100/180 firm cored file is a must for enhancement rebalancing and file finishing. Here I have the CND BLIZZARD Board, but there are others available with the same grit numbers. The 100 side is great for quick debulking, and the 180 side is just that bit smoother for refining.

Enhancement file finishing always required a padded file to smooth away the flat spots left by the firm cored file. Think turning a surface with flat spots like a peeled potato into a consistent rounded surface, smooth like an egg. Here I have the CND OUTBLACK, a superb padded file for finish filing PLEXI BUILDER GELS.

Finally, a little padded 240/1200 KOALA is an excellent choice for filing the surface of the natural nail when prepping that new nail growth during a rebalance service. And then at the very end of the service, of you discover any little rough edges after applying and curing Top Coat, the 1200 side with a little SolarOil will be ideal to gently smooth them away.

My preference is for black nitrile gloves. Rather than double gloving, I prefer to wear one pair, then change them for a second pair half way through the service if necessary. During lockdown we experienced a shortage of gloves. Manufacturers seemed to have problems sourcing the materials needed. I am always on the lookout for the perfect glove, and it’s my understanding that S2 will soon be introducing the best gloves we have ever had. I am super excited and will keep you posted!